We've been crossing the Siberian planes for some 18 hours now. It's been good. I was yearning for solitude although this can be hardly called that - 54 people crammed in one open-plan carriage - so I've been talking to no one, even avoided 'fellow' English speaking passengers.
It is not entirely how I expected it will be. I thought I will have to 'work hard' to be rewarded company but as it seems I need to fight for the moments to myself. I doubt epiphanies come through having a good time and that's what I've been having so far. Being on holiday they call it I think. I'm not planning any radical spiritual changes such as becoming a monk but I sure damn don't want to come back to my old life having learned nothing. I'm talking learning not experiencing cause of that there will be a lot no matter what.
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Long distance train travel. It feels like some sort of suspended animation. Life existing out of bounds of space and time. Even the scenery outside the window stops feeling real after a while.
It is not meditative either - it almost feels as if being unconscious: not feeling anything, not thinking anything particular, staring into the nothingness on the other side.
It might be the irregularity of sleep but I think it is the mind not being able to cope with the lack of markers on the outside suggesting movement of this enclosed encapsulated little world. The steppe behind the window does not feel there.. Or am I not here?..
No, I am definitely here. I need to go to the toilet.
Even though so many years passed since the true oppression the Russians are still afraid of the police and officials. There is a saying about it which I unfortunately forgot.
In anyway I have finally managed my first experience with the Russian officials just moments ago: I am approached while smoking a cigarette and I am requested papers. Not good at all I think since I have failed to get registration stamps in both Moscow and Yekaterinburg - in the former it wasn't truly necessary since I stayed there less then three days and in the latter because I stayed with Irina. So I am preparing myself for a hefty fine when one of the official points at the entry card (given to my on entry to Russia) and complains about an incorrectly filled field. According to him there should be the destination of my travel instead of the Visa number that I have put there. I object that I have filled it according to instructions I was given but he is already sticking a note under my nose saying that I will have to pay a 'pine'. I beg to disagree when he suggests I get off the train in Novosibirsk and go with him to settle the gross error in my papers. Yeah right!
In a very non-confrontational manner I take the card from his hand, inspect it again and to my surprise find a big caption 'Visa no.' written both in English and Russian above the incriminated field. It's a joy ride from here: I point it out, he inspects, he growls, he inspects some more, he growls some more and finally waves me off and leaves to bother someone else. Not the brightest one I tell you.
Now I cannot help but wonder whether to bother with Visa registration in Irkutsk at all.
Long distance train travel. It feels like some sort of suspended animation. Life existing out of bounds of space and time. Even the scenery outside the window stops feeling real after a while.
It is not meditative either - it almost feels as if being unconscious: not feeling anything, not thinking anything particular, staring into the nothingness on the other side.
It might be the irregularity of sleep but I think it is the mind not being able to cope with the lack of markers on the outside suggesting movement of this enclosed encapsulated little world. The steppe behind the window does not feel there.. Or am I not here?..
No, I am definitely here. I need to go to the toilet.
-
Even though so many years passed since the true oppression the Russians are still afraid of the police and officials. There is a saying about it which I unfortunately forgot.
In anyway I have finally managed my first experience with the Russian officials just moments ago: I am approached while smoking a cigarette and I am requested papers. Not good at all I think since I have failed to get registration stamps in both Moscow and Yekaterinburg - in the former it wasn't truly necessary since I stayed there less then three days and in the latter because I stayed with Irina. So I am preparing myself for a hefty fine when one of the official points at the entry card (given to my on entry to Russia) and complains about an incorrectly filled field. According to him there should be the destination of my travel instead of the Visa number that I have put there. I object that I have filled it according to instructions I was given but he is already sticking a note under my nose saying that I will have to pay a 'pine'. I beg to disagree when he suggests I get off the train in Novosibirsk and go with him to settle the gross error in my papers. Yeah right!
In a very non-confrontational manner I take the card from his hand, inspect it again and to my surprise find a big caption 'Visa no.' written both in English and Russian above the incriminated field. It's a joy ride from here: I point it out, he inspects, he growls, he inspects some more, he growls some more and finally waves me off and leaves to bother someone else. Not the brightest one I tell you.
Now I cannot help but wonder whether to bother with Visa registration in Irkutsk at all.
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